Calling for societal renewal through cross-cultural and interfaith research, education, dialogue and understanding and upholding the universal values of freedom, justice, peace, democracy and prosperity for all in the 21st Century.
FROM SUDAN TO NIGERIA:
PROMISE AND CHALLENGES OF AFRICAN
DIVERSITY
It was great to find my freedom again after spending 6 months of imprisonment in 1971 at the infamous Kober Prison in Khartoum North, simply because I dared to express an opinion of support to Colonel Hashim El-Atta'a short lived corrective military takeover, that the General Gaafar Numeiry's military dictatorship of the time did not like. I returned to my diplomatic job as a first secretary at the department of African affairs,of Sudanese Foreign Ministry in Khartoum. After working on a historic international conference spearheaded by my friend Dr. Mansour Khalid, then Minister of Foreign Affairs, on "Diplomacy and Development", I was transferred to the Sudanese Embassy in Lagos, as my new posting and the first in Africa. Ambassador Fakhreldin Mohamed, then Undersecretary of the Ministry, a great diplomat and a friend, who served at the Sudan Mission in the United Nations, was instrumental in that move.
So in March 1972 I was happy to spread my wings again and take to the sky aboard a brand new Ethiopian Airlines airplane leaving Khartoum to Lagos, Nigeria. Having been aware of the multi-dimentional identity challenges and the push and pull of being born a Sudanese, and having grown up in North Sudan within a dominance of Arab culture, and having spent a lot of time working with Arab and African students during my Paris Studies, this was a great opportunity for me to live a totally unadulterated
African experience. I saw this as a great way to balance the Arab side of my identity with my African side.
The plane voyage from Khartoum airport to to Lagos Ikeja airport had the great flavor of Ethiopian hospitality, music and food. I was met at the airport by my colleague El-Faki Abdalla with whom I stayed while searching for a house for rent in Ikoyi island. I was lucky to find a nice villa on Norman William's Street in Ikoyi island, close to the embassy on the nearby Awolowo Road. Ikoyi is the most affluent neighborhood of Lagos, located in Eti-Osa Local Government Area. It lies to the northeast of Obalende and adjoins Lagos Island to the west, and at the edge of the Lagos Lagoon.
Having corresponded in 1958 with non other than the most charismatic Pan Africanist and the 1960s Africa first thinker President Osagefo Dr. Kwame Nkrumah, I was ready to build on that foundation and deepen my Africanist awareness by feasting on all Nigeria had to offer. And I was blessed, because of this attitude, to be welcomed, embraced and celebrated by Lagos and Nigeria. This first African diplomatic posting experience was also a life changer for me. In so many ways, it turned out to be a dream come true. So much so that in fact I preferred it to the post I was originally supposed to be assigned to which was Bon Germany, which the small politics and the limited horizon of the ambassador there thwarted.
In Nigeria I had a great exposure to Nigerian society, culture, politics, music and its vibrant arts of all types. I had the privilege of meeting General Yakubu Gowan, at our ambassador's presentation of his letters of credence. President Gowan was the head of State and of the Federal Military Government of Nigeria from 1966 to
1975. He took over after a military coup
d'état and was overthrown in another. Coup d'etats were fashionable in Africa then, and alas until now. I also had the honor of meeting his predecessors: His Excellencies, President Ndami Izikwe (Ibu) and Obafemi Awolowo (Yoruba). In
addition, I also was active in the Young Diplomats’ Club. As part of that group
we would discuss issues and bond around our job challenges, responsibilities, promise and fun. We organized weekend fun boat trips to Lome; capital of Togo, which is a tiny French speaking country west of
Nigeria. We’d eat French and speak French the entire weekend.
Two of my best friends were the U.S. Cultural Attache Peter Lafayette and Hector Griffin, Venezuela'a Charge D'Affaires. Pete, who was an African American from North Carolina, was also my neighbor in Ikoyi island who loved music and, like me, especially Jazz. Both being single and curious about Africa, we enjoyed continuing learning from one another and discussing Nigerian, African and American politics, history, society, arts and culture. U.S. Cultural Attache Peter Lafayette had a love and a passion for Nigerian music, art and
culture. He was an avid collector of Nigerian paintings and sculptors. Pete had exquisite taste and also was known for his
parties. Lafayette would invite American friends and we would party and
discuss issues.
Hector Griffin, on the other hand, was an outgoing Venezuelan diplomat, who was his country's Charge d’ Affairs in Nigeria. Hector and I would travel from place to place
on his motor scooter. We were both young and wanted to experience life. We were
serious diplomats during the day, but after 7 pm we would throw on our leather
pants and ride to restaurants and our favorite activity. Being of African
decent he loved Nigerian Afro Beat music. Afro Beat is a marriage of
traditional Nigerian Yoruba, contemporary jazz and soul music. We were regular
patrons at the Africa Shrine, FELA Ransom Kuti’s landmark music club in Lagos. Kuti,
who invented the Afro Beat genre, was a legend in Nigeria. His music was loved
by many, but he also was an outspoken critic who was brave in expressing his objection to military rule. That
endeared him to Hector, Pete and myself and of course even more to all Nigerians inside the country and in the Diaspora.
From my soon to be published book "AFRICA: HEAVEN ON EARTH"
No comments:
Post a Comment